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Finding Paradise in Patagonia - with Sky Travel presenter Bill Dod

Finding Paradise in Patagonia is Sky TV travel presenter Bill Dod’s first contribution. He writes about wonderful fishing, scenery and hospitality.

The Rio Grande in Argentina

I thought I was good at spotting fish… until now.

I often find myself guiding guests on the River Kennet in Berkshire when not doing the day job. It’s my chance to show off to inexperienced (and sometimes experienced) anglers my sighting skills. They are moments that are highlights of fishing – picking out that camouflaged tail swaying in the current below an overhanging willow branch; crying out “Strike!” as a light-coloured fleshy mouth chomps on a drifting nymph 10 yards upstream. The words of disbelief, “ How on earth do you see these things? There must be something wrong with my sunglasses… let me try yours! ” make me smile as I reflect on the day during the journey back to London. If they spent as many hours as I do on the river – then they would be as good as me. But then again, their busy lives don’t allow the required dedication and time on the riverbank. In theory my life should be the same as theirs but, in the summer, my ambition is usurped by fishing.

The boat’s outboard groaned to a throaty halt. The waves from the bow fanned ahead and broke out along the sandy beach. The boat followed behind, gliding towards the bank. The crunch on gravel echoed through the now silent valley as we landed. Within minutes I was crouching down, 4-weight in hand, watching five large trout feeding in very clear, thin water. I am in Argentina.

Nicholas - my guide

The Futaleufu is a huge river running through the highland region of Patagonia that stretches through Argentina and Chile. It is one of the most beautiful and unspoilt fishing regions on earth. Known as the Rio Grande in Argentina, the river bends its way through steep canyons sometimes swirling through deep, dark pools, tumbling over rocks or serenely sweeping around large shallow bends covered in golden sand. I am lucky enough to be staying at El Encuentro Lodge, perched high up on the river bank overlooking just a few yards of at least 40 miles of clear, pristine trout water – all accessible by boat and wading.

The lodge has been run and owned by an Englishman, Michael Beale and his Argentine wife, Jane for over 20 years. The five children, three sons and two daughters, all help with the guiding. Today I am with Nicholas, the youngest son whose experience and knowledge belies his young age. We had only travelled in the boat for 10 minutes before reaching the bend with the feeding trout. On the way the sun beat down on our backs; we looked up into the clear blue sky to watch all sorts of ducks and geese take flight from the moving boat …speckled teal, brown pintail, spectacled duck, southern widgeon, ashy headed geese, red shovellers, cinnamon teal, upland geese and the rare flying steamer duck. Many of these birds, along with giant kingfishers and buff necked ibis, had bid us good morning as we ate breakfast on the veranda just an hour before. Who said fishing is not just about catching fish?

Situated on the river bank, El Encuentro Lodge

The five fish were in such shallow water that their dorsal fins broke through the surface. I assumed they were feeding on snails – I was hoping that they were not in discerning mood as my small dark nymph plopped down about three feet from them. Surely they would spook in that skinny water? Without hesitation a 3lb rainbow dashed towards the fly like a high speed, remote controlled toy submarine. The line tightened, the rod arched forward and after a splash and a swirl the fish was gone – leaving a slack line in the water. Nicholas sighed in disbelief; the hook was slightly bent and had not struck home. My disappointment on such a frustrating debut on the Rio Grande was shortlived. To my astonishment, the remaining fish had settled down within five minutes after the earlier commotion and a 2lb rainbow was soon glistening in the sunshine in front of my clicking camera lens.

It was a successful start to the day – but any thoughts that this would be easy fishing were misguided. We moved on up the river, willow trees and lush vegetation lined the banks; it was an ever changing panorama as we turned the bends. One minute vast grey rocks towered above us followed by lush green pastures rolling away over open plains as far as the eye could see. The sandy bottom of the river, dotted with fallen branches and occasional weed beds, was visible through the deep clear water as it skimmed along below us. Narrow deep channels disappeared away from the river into avenues lined by thick vegetation. They deserved a second look with a tempting dry fly…

A wild Rio Grande Rainbow takes a fly

I was now in the water, eyes straining, waist deep on the tips of my toes, trying to see the fish that Nicholas was eagerly pointing at. It was at least 12 yards away from me under a leafy willow branch that was being constantly tugged downstream by the current. I could not see it at all. Was there something wrong with my glasses? Eventually I had to listen to his verbal instructions and cast the fly to within six inches of the target. Second cast. Bang. The Yellow Humpy vanished into the swirling depths and my fish was on. Nicholas won the spotting competition hands down that day. Fourteen fish succumbed to my Humpy dry fly and Hare’s Ear nymph and well over half were fish that I could not see. This was sight fishing all right – but the guide’s sight not mine. Many of the fish averaged 2 - 3lbs and the 1lb fish proved to be the most hard fighting and acrobatic that I had ever caught. Despite their hard fight they shot off with renewed energy on their release. How different from the stocked fish of the South East of England that require tender care and lengthy resuscitation before their release. No intensive care or oxygen masks needed for their Latin cousins – these are truly wild, fit and healthy fish.

After a typical Argentine lunch of fine food and red wine, a two hour siesta was scheduled before returning to the river at 4.30pm. There’s no limit to your fishing time here – dinner isn’t until 10.30pm – so let’s fish until it’s dark! What a great way to spend the day.

I was in South America for the main reason of attending my brother’s wedding in Quito, Ecuador. Forty family and friends cruising the Galapagos on his new business venture, a cruise boat called The Eclipse, followed the event. It was an amazing experience with an educational emphasis on the cruise. Four guides with science degrees enlightened us on, among other things, the theory of evolution. As I landed very sandy, light coloured brown trout that inhabited shallow sandy-bottomed water and silvery blue rainbows from the deep, dark blue waters I accepted that Darwin had a good point.

The next day was not so idyllic. The wind struck up and white clouds rolled across the blue sky. I knew the day before was too good to be true. Nicholas was unperturbed. We sped off upstream in the boat and to my excitement; we found one of those fishy channels I had spied the day earlier. The river is so large and diverse, whatever the weather it seems that you can still cast a fly… and catch a fish.

The river is just a 3 minute walk from the lodge

The channel turned out to be as productive as it looked. As we drifted quietly down the Amazon-like passage we occasionally heard heavy splashes under the overhanging shrubs and trees. Tell tale ripples in the water guided us towards the spot. Eight out of 10 times an accurate cast with a Stimulator hooked a fish. We know. We were counting and laughing hysterically each time a plump brown trout hooked itself as it voraciously snapped at the fly. Maybe my spotting was not up to scratch but I took pride in not losing my fly in the overhanging branches - accurate side casting was the only way to achieve results.

I was only at El Encuentro for two days. I want to return as I had only covered a tiny area of what’s available. Michael tells me that they also have access to a Spring Creek and can take clients fishing in the nearby National Park.

I have fished in America, New Zealand and Alaska where, like Argentina, waters are open to all. Even though I thought I was going to the remotest areas in those countries, I still stumbled across other anglers. Here it is a long way from Buenos Aires and there are many other famous fishing areas in between. The interest and pressure has not arrived yet at El Encuentro – but it will. Maybe I should not be writing about this secret, but it would be a shame not to share it with a relatively small number of anglers in the UK who might even go there for a few days. Michael has been there for over 20 years and wants it to remain the same for the next 20 years for his children. They are the future guardians and they need to make a living. It is a sustainable resource but a delicate one. As plans go ahead for one or two new lodges to be opened in the area, now is the time to enjoy this unique and unspoilt water with a family who know it and love it.

Oh and by the way, after experiencing fishing at El Encuentro and you end up on the Kennet with me, you won’t need any help in spotting those fish… unless of course there is something wrong with your glasses.

Bill Dod currently appears on the Sky Travel channel and is also a director of Great Takes Travel.(www.greattakestravel.com) He is leading a group to El Encuentro in January 2006 - if you would like to join him please e-mail him at bill@greattakestravel.com for more information.

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