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Caithness - Land of Limestone lochs

Our August 2000 contribution from Lesley Crawford

Lesley Crawford does a bit of flag waving for her home county of Caithness ...

THE LOWLANDS BEYOND THE HIGHLANDS

If you overheard an anglers conversation about lochs littered with mayfly, limestone waters where crustaceans thrive and where the trout make your eyes water, you might be forgiven for thinking your fellow fishers were describing angling in Ireland or on a southern chalkstream.

Actually you would be wrong for they have probably just paid a visit to that rich and fertile 'lowlands beyond the highlands' Caithness. While those who like exploring northward for wild trout will often head first for the superb fishing in the well known wilds of Sutherland, Caithness often remains a second choice with perhaps only Loch Watten being considered by visiting fishermen.

Why this should be so has always remained something of a mystery to me for the quality of trout angling in this most northerly of Scottish mainland counties is quite outstanding. - Could it be perhaps that Caithness wants to keep its pristine waters a little bit sacred, a secret only a few privileged anglers can indulge in? - Absolutely not, for while we take an undoubted pride in the clear unpolluted waters which bedeck our land, public access to the trout lochs is very reasonably priced and easily obtained.

THE LOCHS

From one end of this small county to the other there are around 30 fishing lochs with the best known of these being Watten (3 miles of prolific transparent water with silvery trout of 3/4lb plus), Calder (2 miles of alkaline purity with supreme fighting trout of all sizes), St Johns (mayfly heaven with marl shoreline and butter fat trout), Heilan (shallow and extremely rich with enormous but canny trout) and Yarrows (clear demanding loch with a wide range of trout from 1/2lb to 3lb plus). Heilan is particularly noted for its exquisite large trout which regularly come in at around the 3 - 5lb mark but all the aforementioned lochs are well capable of producing fish in the 2lb plus range.

Smaller and perhaps not so weil kent lochs of equally productive nature are amongst others Stemster, Sarclet, Reay lochs, Olginey, Cherigal, Toftingall and Watten's sister loch, Loch Scarmclate. All of these can produce fabulous brown trout ranging anything from 1/2lb to 3lb plus with a goodly number coming in at around the pound which is a very healthy `average' for wild trout . There are also a number of hidden gems tucked away in the `Flow Country' where chalybeate (mineral rich) springs supplement the waters and trout are seldom fished for from one year to the next. Virtually all Caithness trout lochs are alkaline in nature even when they appear surrounded by bog pools and peat hags, and they hold copious amounts of rich feeding for the resident trout.

TROUT HABITAT

So what is it that sets this land of magnificent lochs apart from other highland areas? - Apart from the distinctively beautiful rolling moorland landscape capped with vast horizons, the answer lies in the environment which is quite unique in terms of its geology. Virtually all Caithness waters are underlain with limestone which makes for exceptional trout habitat. Here and there this limestone makes it appearance on the surface of the land where it is known locally as marl (a pale clay-like lime bearing mud). In the past this marl was extracted from lochs to provide fertiliser for the surrounding agricultural land and though this practise is not undertaken now, care must be taken here and there when wading for there are deep soft holes in some though not all of the lochs.

The presence of such quantities of marl provides an ideal habitat for profuse mayfly or Green Drakes, indeed very few Caithness waters are without mayfly. The marl provides excellent conditions for the mayfly nymphs to make a stable burrow in which they dwell for approximately 2 years. On emerging in vast number the nymphs appear translucent with the dark wing cases clearly visible on their back. Measuring as long as 4cm they float down the lochs in a veritable cascade providing a sudden very welcome new banquet for the trout. Those nymphs which are not engulfed by feeding fish emerge from their shucks to stutter ashore where they dry their wings for perhaps a couple of days before the mating egg laying ritual and eventual death. Forget 'duffers fortnights' here however, for the mayfly hatch begins in early June and can last as long as the middle of August.

NATURAL FEEDING

And if abundant green drakes are not enough to tempt you or the trout then there are still huge hatches of just about every insect known to man. Olives, midge and sedge are copious plus plentiful Gammarus shrimp, caddis larvae, snails and pea mussels litter the predominantly shallow loch floors. One thing you should remember though is that because of this luxurious feeding on the loch base, it can sometimes take a deal of surface action to get the trout to sustain a rise. Productive times therefore vary but the first profuse midge hatches (April, May), the appearance of mayfly (June to early August), major sedge hatches (June to August) and the Bibio hatches of late Aug/September time are generally offer the best chance of good fish.


The only variable which can affect the timing of your angling is the volatile weather particularly gales! Caithness sits atop the north of Britain and winds rush in from across the Pentland Firth. Anything above 20mph wind speed (it can go as high as 40 60 plus mph!) is significant here as there is little or no shelter from the blast. Rainfall is however average and we do occasionally get some very hot still days when trout have an absolute field day though watch out for the midges for they too are prolific in calm
high summer conditions!

TACTICS

Tactics on the Caithness trout lochs are generally traditional with 10ft rod, floating line, 4lb nylon and traditional flies like the Soldier Palmer, Zulu, Invicta, Kate Mclaren, Greenwells and Ke He (size 10 to 14) doing the business. Be flexible though and add in a selection of more modern tyings like Silver Sedge, Hoppers, Mini Muddlers and specialist flies like Green Drakes, Black Gnats, Elk Hair Sedges and the like and away you go. Loch style is normally practised with 2 4 flies fished in teams but adapt according to the conditions, remember tangled droppers are common in high winds! Good presentation of fly so it is not scary but life like is essential on these mainly gin clear waters. Use a light touch and cover as much new water as possible, standing too long in the one spot achieves little. You must be the hunter gatherer and go to the fish, they do not come to you.

Further general advice on loch trout is available in my January Fish & Fly article `Fishing for Trout on Highland Lochs' which should give you all the necessary preliminary help you will need.

`CONVERT TO CAITHNESS'

Anglers who do make a first visit to Caithness often find themselves returning year in year out to tempt the beautiful hard fighting fish which reside within our excellent lochs. Our trout have excellent growth rates in lush habitats, day tickets are available on most fly waters and provided you fish without excessive greed and by prescribed method (which I am sure you will do anyway) you are assured of a very warm welcome...

Now, when can we expect you?

Also within Fish & Fly...

July 2000: The more I fish for wild trout the more I realise just how unpredictable their behaviour can be... Lesley Crawford on wild trout behaviour

June 2000: If you are a traditional wet or dry fly fisher, first attempts at nymph fishing often meet with mixed success... Lesley Crawford on Fishing the Nymph for Wild Browns

May 2000: We all know fishing is a relaxing yet challenging country pursuit enjoyed throughout Britain and that there are few finer escapes from an over stressed world. It would be great if our children could follow in our footsteps. Lesley Crawford looks at how we can encourage youngsters to take up the sport

April 2000: Lesley Crawford looks at how both the trout and angler react to weather conditions - Wild Weather

March 2000: Lesley Crawford takes a light-hearted look at how to get the most out of your wild trout fishing holiday in Scotland. A Survivor's Guide to Trout Fishing in Scotland.

February 2000: Lesley Crawford takes a seasoned look at various tactics employed by past masters in Scottish trout fishing and ponders how best we can apply old skills in the new millennium. Out with the old and in with the new. 

January 2000: Visiting the Highlands of Scotland for the first time you might be forgiven for thinking you have arrived in loch fishing paradise. An introduction to fishing for trout in Highland lochs from Lesley Crawford.