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Ask The Panel - Archive 1

Q. I have just recently started river fishing and would like some advice on whether the fly leader on the surface puts trout off... More

Q. I tend to hit the top of my rod with the cast when I go back to basics and use textbook casting. I also have problems with a tailing loop when I go for distance... More

Q. I'm new to the dry fly scene and am having a bit of a problem in hooking fish on the surface... More

Q. I fish the lower reaches of the river Don in Aberdeenshire and have struggled to find an effective technique for fishing weighted nymphs where wading/access is difficult... More

Q. I have been fishing stillwaters since I started flyfishing and would now like to start fishing rivers... More

Q. What fly can I use to catch carp feeding from the surface? More

Q. Why are the Trout always leaping out of the water 10 yards further out than I can cast? More

Q. I am visiting Bermuda next month. I have never fished saltwater in the UK let alone abroad and would welcome some advice, particularly on flies and where to get them. More

Q. What species of saltwater fish can be caught on a fly in the UK and what tackle would you recommend as being suitable for alround saltwater fly fishing? More

Q. If a river is high and muddy, can it be worth fishing and what is the best way to fish it? More

Q. I am new to fly fishing and although I read the article on Czech nymphing, I was a bit confused by some of the terminology and not sure how to make-up a suitable leader. Can you please explain? More

The Answers...

I have just recently started river fishing and would like some advice on whether the fly leader on the surface puts trout off? And if so, is there anything I can do to minimise the effect that this seems to have? Gary Foster

Although there is not much in fly fishing that one can be dogmatic about, I think that I can say with confidence that you should never grease the last few inches of your tippet (the last bit of your leader to which the fly is tied). Brian Clarke and John Goddard in their book, The Trout and the Fly, A New Approach, tested leaders of equal diameter, one of which was greased, one was treated to make it sink and the third was simply wiped clean with a soft cloth. Their conclusions were that the leader treated to sink was the least visible, the one that had been greased the most. The leader treated to sink was more easy to see underwater - fluorocarbon which is much less visible in water than standard nylon will overcome this problem - but it could not be seen at all on the surface. So make sure that your tippet is free from grease and preferably treated so that it will sink. Terry Lawton

I tend to hit the top of my rod with the cast when I go back to basics and use textbook casting. I also have problems with a tailing loop when I go for distance. I am almost sure that the line is straightening on the back cast because I can feel the tug. Can you help me? Dave Connelly

So much of casting is down to technique and timing. The harder and farther you try to cast, the bigger the mess you will make of your cast. A tailing loop is when the top part of the loop in your line drops below the bottom part and on the forward cast, the line, leader or fly catches the bottom portion of your line while crossing it. This is how so-called wind knots occur. On the forward cast the end of the line is on a collision course with your rod or the forward part of the line. One of the fundamental principles of fly casting is that the line travels in the direction the tip was moving when it stopped, it follows that your rod must have stopped in a straight line and stayed in the way (of the forward cast).

You should start your forward cast just before the line on the back cast straightens completely. Your rod hand should move forward slowly and then speed up and stop as you complete your forward cast. Make sure that you don't push your rod straight ahead and leave it in the way of the accelerating line. You must ensure that the tip of your rod moves slightly down and out of the way of the forward cast by continuing your cast until the tip of the rod is below the loop.

To get extra distance you need to increase line speed. You can do this with either a single haul cast or a double haul, both of which increase line speed and the load on your rod. Terry Lawton

I'm new to the dry fly scene and am having a bit of a problem in hooking fish on the surface. When fish take my fly, usually a dry or a CDC, I cannot connect with them at all. This happens whatever way the trout takes my fly, whether it is just a gentle take, or whether it leaps right out of the water over my fly! Andrew Hardie

Are the fish actually taking your fly? When you say that a trout leaps right out of the water over your fly, it could well have done just that: leapt over it and missed it. When a fish rises to a dry fly, it is very easy to "strike" too quickly and pull the fly away from the fish. (Strike is too aggressive a word as it suggests a great yank, something that is not wanted.) You must give the fish enough time to take your fly into its mouth and then turn down. As it turns down is the time to tighten.

For a fish feeding in or just sub-surface, you may see a white flash as it opens and closes it mouth. Tighten when you see its mouth close. When fishing nymphs below the surface you will find that, at first, you will have to tighten as quicky as you can, before the fish spits out your fly. Again, look out for that white flash as the mouth opens and closes. Terry Lawton

I fish the lower reaches of the river Don in Aberdeenshire and have struggled to find an effective technique for fishing weighted nymphs where wading/access is difficult. I have been keen to get to grips with the upstream 'Czech' type techniques, however due to restricted access, close control and access to likely holding areas is difficult without long casts. Any suggestions? Gavin Stevenson

First of all, the Czech technique is only for fishing close as no casting is involved - you fish with a fixed length of line, approximately the same as the length of your rod. The second point to be made is that the classic upstream nymphing technique was developed on and for southern chalkstreams where access is good and current flows are relatively slow. It is a technique that will need adapting for faster, more turbulent streams and rivers.

When access is limited and wading difficult or impossible, you will need to try a range of different casting techniques and even consider fishing your nymphs across and down or even down stream, more like a traditional wet fly or fishing streamers across and down.

The roll cast is the first to try when there is not enough room for a back cast. The steeple cast is designed to send the line straight up in the air behind you on your back cast. Another technique is to change direction as you cast. To do this, you make your false casts where, or in the direction, there is room and change the direction of your final cast so that it goes where you want. You could also try a reverse cast. To do this you stand with your back to where you want to fish so a back cast is your final cast as you cast over your shoulder. Terry Lawton

I have been fishing stillwaters since I started flyfishing and would now like to start fishing rivers. Could the panel tell me what trout streams or rivers are nearest to the West Midlands and do I need a different NRA license than the course and non-migratory trout one. Also a few good tips on tackle would not go amiss. Graham Jordan

A coarse and non-migratory trout licence covers fishing for all such fish anywhere in England and Wales.

When fishing on rivers you will want to fish lighter and finer with shorter leaders than you would use on stillwaters. You should start with your lightest line weight rod; length is not critical to begin with. River fishing is a mobile pursuit and so a landing net that can be carried easily will be better that a big stillwater net that is stuck into the bank. Here are the addresses of a series of articles that you will find helpful:
http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/tledit1299.html , tledit0200.html , tledit0400.html and tledit0500.html

Jon Beer's articles will point you in the direction of rivers to try in your area. They can be found at Failing that, have a look at the river reports in Trout and Salmon magazine, and ask for information in local tackle shops. There is plenty of good fishing in Wales.

What fly can I use to catch carp feeding from the surface? Lyndsey Howarth

The first thing to do is to have a look at what flies are about. Second, can you see surface feeding Carp taking flies? You may need a pair of binoculars to see what is going on. If the fish are seen to be taking flies and you can identify them, start by matching the hatch as if fishing for trout. The other thing to take into account is the time of day. If you are fishing in the evening, I am sure that it would be worthwhile trying some sedge patterns, perhaps skittering them across the surface like a live sedge.

Anyone who is interested in catching fish other than trout on the fly, should take a look at Lou Stevens' book The Adaptable Flyfisher, Wild trout and coarse fish on fly, which I have just reviewed. See http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/bookrevs/adaptable.html He writes about catching a big Carp on a Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear nymph. I would be interested to hear from any Carp fishermen who fly fish as well. I will pass-on any information received. It could make a subject for a future article.

Fish & Fly visitor Paul Hilton has had success catching Carp on flies in the Bolton area. He has caught them using a Daddy Longlegs fished wet, Hare's Ear nymphs and suspender nymphs, all size 12s. He says that landing an angry 15lb Carp on fly tackle is a far more interesting problem. His final comment is that accuracy of casting and presentation seems to be the key, rather than choice of fly. This is so often the key to catching almost any fish on a fly.

Why are the Trout always leaping out of the water 10 yards further out than I can cast? I get the feeling that if Trout had fingers... Andrew Barr

I think that you are wrong. This behaviour is not a demonstration of superior intellect and an ability to mock the poor angler's feeble efforts to remove the crafty trout from its natural environment. I am of the opinion that it is a practical demonstration of the Trout's lack of intellect and inability to appreciate that you are obviously a discerning chap who should be helped to get more enjoyment from his fishing by the said Trout attaching themselves to your hook at sensibly spaced intervals. Not too frequently because it will soon be boring, but equally not too far apart as that is not much fun either. The other answer is that the trout know that you need to practice casting just that little bit further. But then again, stop and look to see just how many fish there are within casting distance.

I am visiting Bermuda next month. I have never fished saltwater in the UK let alone abroad and would welcome some advice, particularly on flies and where to get them. Rod Cottee

What species of saltwater fish can be caught on a fly in the UK and what tackle would you recommend as being suitable for alround saltwater fly fishing? Steve

The first point to make is that unless your tackle is saltwater-proof, you must wash it really well in fresh water everytime you use it. That means all the rod, reel, line and everything else you use.

Fulling Mill Flies' catalogue has saltwater flies and lists stockists. Contact sales@fulling-mill.com for a copy. I suggest that you keep a special box for these flies to keep any salt away from your regular flies.

For fishing in the heat of Bernuda, you may want to buy a special tropical saltwater fly line which will cope with the temperature and also be designed for use in the sea. Don't forget that saltwater is more bouyant than fresh and a line that sinks well in fresh water will not sink as much, if at all, in the sea.

Fish that can be caught around the UK will include mullet, mackerel, bass and sea trout. I am sure that there are others that can be caught on a fly. To find out more about saltwater flyfishing in this country, read Saltwater Flyfishing - Britain & Northern Europe, which is edited by Paul Morgan. It is available from http://www.fishing.org/bonddu or e-mail Paul Morgan at omorgan@zetnet.co.uk I borrowed a copy from a local library and, to be quite honest, I was very disappointed. I thought that it was going to inspire me to rush off to the coast with fly rod in hand but, sadly, it didn't. However, it is worth reading and will, perhaps, appeal to others more than me.

Most rods that will cast a seven or eight weight line should be suitable for saltwater flyfishing. A four-piece travel rod will obviously be easier to take to Bermuda than a nine foot two piece. Terry Lawton

If a river is high and muddy, can it be worth fishing and what is the best way to fish it?

One day last summer a friend and I were fishing my local river. It had been very wet the day before but the river was still clear and the water level normal. After lunch the river started rising and the colour turned to brown soup. After a while, we decided to call it a day. Interestingly, two other members fished after we had left and had good sport in spite of the condition of the river. So fish can be caught in dirty water.

What are the best techniques for fishing in muddy water? Research that I have done suggests fishing deep, slow, large and dark.

Fishing deep will mean that your fly is near the bottom where the current is slower than near the surface - unless the river is in full flood. Fish find lies near or even on the bottom where they are out of the full force of the current. To get your flies down this deep, they will need to be well weighted. Use a fast sinking leader and you may need to consider some form of sinking or sink tip line, depending on the depth of the water that you are fishing. A shorter leader may give you more control over your fly and help keep it nearer the bottom.

When you have got your fly down deep, fish it as slowly as possible which gives foraging trout more chance of finding your fly. Fish all likely holding areas slowly and carefully and try any spots where the current may be a bit slower. Rocks and obstructions will provide low pressure areas that may hold fish as may little bays close in to the bank. Differences in current speed may be signalled by lines on the surface of the river.

Big flies should be used as they will cause the most disturbance: that will be picked up by a trout's lateral line, even if it cannot see the fly. As well as using big flies, try dark ones as they will show up best in murky conditions. This is the same as with salmon fishing when dark flies are recommended for dark conditions and light flies for bright, sunny days. If rules allow, try fishing a big, dark streamer downstream. Such a fly will create quite a disturbance in the water that will attract fish to it. Terry Lawton

I am new to fly fishing and although I read the article on Czech nymphing, I was a bit confused by some of the terminology and not sure how to make-up a suitable leader. Can you please explain?

When Czech nymphing you are not casting in the accepted sense so you can use an untapered leader. You are fishing with a fixed length of line and you simply lob the flies upstream at the end of each drift.

The fly on the end of the cast (or leader which is the American name) is the point fly, if you are fishing with more than one fly. The last length of nylon that makes up a cast is called the tippet. When you fish with two or more flies, the extra fly/ies is/are tied to droppers. Droppers are short lengths of nylon sticking out from the main length of leader. The droppers are an integral part of your leader - not simply short lengths attached to one length of nylon.

When making up a cast for Czech nymphing, start with pieces of nylon leader material that are too long. You can cut the finished leader to length when you tie on your flies and also attach the leader to the end of your fly line. Trim all knots, including when tying on your flies, so that the tag or unwanted end is about 2mm long.

1. Take a spool of nylon and cut off a length about 30" long. Assuming you are left-handed, lay the short length you have just cut off the spool alongside the end of the nylon still on the spool. Overlap the two lengths by 12". Hold the uncut nylon and the left-hand end of the short length in your left hand. Now tie a thumb knot with the two lengths; pass the two lengths through the thumb knot again, moisten and draw the knot tight. This is how to tie a surgeon's knot. Now trim-off the short length of nylon on the left of the knot. The 30" length is the tippet and the short length is the first dropper. The dropper is pointing down the leader and one fly only will be tied to each section of the leader.

If you want to fish with two flies, cut the nylon so that you have a complete leader about six foot long. When you tie on the point fly, tie the knot so that the tippet ends up 20" long and do the same with the dropper which wants to be about 4" long.

2. If you are going to fish with three flies, you will have to make another dropper. This time cut the nylon that is still attached to the spool so that you have 30" inches between where you cut the nylon and the surgeon's knot that you have just tied. Repeat the procedure in 1. When tying length No 2 to No 3, you will have to adjust the position of the knot so that you have approximately 20" between the two droppers. This will need a bit of practice and experimentation to get things just right. Terry Lawton