Q. Can I fly fish for coarse fish? More...

Q. Is there anywhere I can find advice on retrieves? More...

Q. Can you suggest how to stop hopper style flies from spinning and causing bad line twisting when used as point flies or droppers? More...

Q. Is there any way of calculating the best weight line for a rod? More...

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I am going to try my hand at fishing for Salmon in a small river in Snowdonia. I have heard that a single handed rod of about 10 foot and 9-10 rated is sufficient on a small river. Is this OK as I have a reservoir rod, which fits the criterion. Or am I better off hiring a bigger rod? And how are the flies fished normally, are they retrieved, or left to drift in the current? David Adams

I am sure that the rod you describe will be ideal for some summer salmon fishing in a small river. You will want only a floating line. In essence, salmon fishing is akin to wet fly fishing for trout, ie you fish across and down.

You start by casting across the river at about 45 degrees and allowing the fly and line to swim round until the fly is hanging down below you, or on the dangle, which can be a good taking spot. You then retrieve enough line so that you can cast again. Depending on the speed of the river, you may need to mend the line upstream to slow the passage of your fly across the river.

When you reach the tail of a pool, you can either fish on downstream or fish back up the pool, known as backing up. To do this, cast at 90 degrees across the river and then take two or three steps upstream, stripping in line as you do so.
You may want to try some dry flies and possibly muddlers or bombers, riffled hitched, and fished on the surface. Terry Lawton

I'm having a rod made on an "expensive" blank (to save money). What sort of rings do you choose: Fuji? Snakes? Seymos? Does it really matter?

Some time ago, stillwater rods had lined rings because it was felt that they offered better line shooting qualities because of reduced friction. River rods, where the ability to be able to cast long distances is not so important, have always been fitted with unlined rings, usually snake rings. In both cases, the bottom, or stripping ring, would be lined. Longer rods, say 9' 6"+, will benefit from having two lined stripping rings.

Now rings are chosen to help reduce the weight of rods and shooting ability is retained by fitting over-size rings. Snake rings are now available in single leg form which means that there is one less whipping per ring - should reduce costs - which will help reduce any slight effect on rod bend/action caused by the rings.

Seymo rings - made by Hopkins & Holloway - are available in UK and American snake patterns (the American pattern twists in the opposite direction and has a higher stand-off from the rod), single leg snakes and stand-off anti-line slap single leg rings. The latter may be the best for a stillwateror reservoir rod.

Most rings are available in bright chrome, black or gold finishes so you could choose rings of the same colour as the reel seat.

I am sure that your rod maker will be happy to elaborate further on the pros and cons of the different makes and patterns of rod ring. The most important things to go for are light weight and low friction. Terry Lawton

I have just started fly fishing and am confused as to where to fish. I have local stillwaters and lakes which are great. But, I live near the river Thames and have just read the guide book from the river agency - when they say coarse fishing does it mean I am not allowed to fly fish? There are many free sites to fish along the river but it mostly says coarse - can you help me? Thanks. James Coombes

If the guide book says that fishing on the Thames is for coarse fish, it does not mean that you cannot fly fish but coarse fishing methods are used to catch coarse fish because there may not be any trout in these stretches of the river. You can still catch roach, dace, chub and pike on flies. I suggest that you ask around for rivers that are known to hold trout and are fly fished on a regular basis. Terry Lawton

As a beginner to this sport, I would really appreciate some advice on diferent types of retrieves. Nearly every article I read mentions the figure of eight retrieve, but none actually tells me how to do it! Is there anywhere I can find any advice or diagrams? Also, I know there are no hard and fast rules in fly fishing, but is there any general advice you can give me for stillwater retrieval - for example, are nymphs usually retrieved in a different way to wet flies? Are there any articles or books that explain how the naturals move? Many thanks for your help, and keep up the good work. David Johnson.

We have published article all about the retrieve which you'll find here. The essence of the retrieve is to imitate the movement, and speed, of the natural that you are trying to represent with your artificial fly. Your retrieve will vary in speed from the static, non-retrieve, through very slow (many nymphs and midge pupae for example) to stripping lures and streamers at speed. Nymphs would, generally, be fished more slowly than wet flies. A good book on trout food is A Guide To Aquatic Trout Food by Dave Whitlock. This is an American book that has been published in the UK by Swan Hill Press. You may be able to get a copy from Amazon or, if not, try Coch-y-Bonddu Books, www.anglebooks.com - Terry Lawton

Can you suggest how to stop hopper style flies from spinning and causing bad line twisting when used as point flies or droppers? I have tried to ensure the legs are of equal length and balanced three to each side of the fly. I have tried to tie the legs back and down and also down and then back - same result, they spin when cast. Jim G

To prevent hoppers - and other large or bushy flies - from spinning and twisting when casting, there are a number of points to check:

1. Your leader and droppers must be of a size (diameter) suitable to balance a large fly. The tippet diameter for a size 10 hook should be about .008" or .009", 3X or 2X, and that for a size 16 hook, .004" 6X. If not these precise sizes, then something of a similar hook/tippet size. If you use a big fly and thin tippet, then the fly will take control, rather than the tippet keeping the fly under control. I would not fish a hopper on the point as they tend to inhibit good turn-over of your leader.

2. Tie your droppers with a knot that will make them stand out at right angles to the leader. Also don't make them over long. I use a three turn water knot for tying droppers and then put a single half hitch over the water knot. If you then pull on the main leader you will hear a slight click and the dropper will stand out at right angles to the leader. See point 4.

3. Casting technique is very important. Cast smoothly and apply power at the end of the back and forward casting strokes - not at the beginning. It pays to use the minimum of false casts to reduce opportunities for the leader to twist and also not go for a tight loop on your back cast as these types of fly don't turnover very well and so can not only spin, but also catch your leader and cause tangles. I personally slow down my casting action and try to form a wider loop.

4. Have a look at: http://www.fishandfly.co.uk/ffedit0501.html This article may be of further help to you.

Richard Slaughter

I am not happy that my rod, ( 7-9# reservoir) is best suited to the 7# weight forward line I am using at the moment. My distance casting is pretty poor! Apart from trying a heavier line with it, is there any way of calculating the best weight line for a rod? Alec R.Powell

Modern, well designed fly rods should be capable of casting well with a range of sizes of line. Your rod may have a three-line weight rating (7#, 8# and 9#) because it will cast these lines or the designer/maker was not sure what was the right line for it. You may find that it will cast better with an 8# weight forward and/or sinking line, rather than a 7#. This would be the case if the rod was rated for a 7# only. You may find that when you cast you do not aerialise enough line (10m or 30feet) to load the rod properly. If this is the case, you will need to use a line at least one weighht heavier, or in extreme circumstances, two weights heavier. The best way to find out what weight of lines suits you and the rod best, is to try it with different weights of line.

As regards your ability to cast a long line, the simple answer is that a casting lesson or two will help you to improve your technique. A qualified instructor will also be able to advise you and help you find the best weight of line for your rod. Take a look at the list of STANIC instructors at www.salmon-trout.org or, for APGAI instructors go to www.lapsleyd.freeserve.co.uk/apgai Terry Lawton